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来自中国的信:生活在中缅边境

2014-08-25 23:25 作者: Utne 我要评论(0)

关键词:中国 生活

Editor's Note: This is the first installment of a two-part Field Note on the China-Myanmar border.

编者按:这是这篇中缅边境游记的第一部分。

Jade Kingdoms

翡翠王国

"The golden age of jade is gone," Xiao Liu sighed. Two years out of college, he looked old already. He was a native of Tengchong in China's western Yunnan province, one of three strategic China-Myanmar border towns along with Ruili and Yingjiang. Across from Tengchong is Myanmar's Kachin state, much of which is controlled by the Kachin Independence Army, the nation's second-largest ethnic insurgency.

“缅甸玉最火的时候已经过去了“,小刘叹气道,大学毕业两年后,他看起来已经变老了。他是腾冲本地人,腾冲是中国西南边陲云南省的一个县,是包括瑞丽、盈江在内中缅边境上三个战略要冲之一。过了腾冲就是缅甸的克钦邦,那里大部分现在被克钦独立军,也是缅甸第二大的部族武装控制着。

Liu majored in engineering, but all he talks about is jade. Chinese traders have smuggled the precious stone for decades, buying it raw from insurgents or factions within Myanmar's military, known as the Tatmadaw. Often buyers have no idea what their find is worth until they get it back to Yunnan province. Liu once persuaded a friend to go in on a 20,000-yuan ($3,200) venture; the two multiplied their investment a hundredfold. Others are not so lucky. Liu himself was once detained in a water prison by ethnic Shan soldiers near the Myanmar city of Myitkyina. As frightening as it was, he knew that had the Tatmadaw detained him, he would have been killed.

小刘在大学里的专业是工程,但是他跟我们讲的全是缅甸玉。中国商人已经在这里走私这种珍贵的石头几十年了,从叛乱分子或者某些政府军手中购买原石。在返回云南省之前,买家通常在得到原石时压根不知道里面有什么东西。小刘有一次说服了一个朋友和他一起”赌石“,两万元(3200美元)的投资后来赚了一百倍,其他人可能就没这么幸运了。小刘本人有一次被掸族士兵关押在密支那市附近的水牢里的经历,虽然这很骇人听闻,但是他说假如抓住他的是政府军,他早就玩完了。

Liu talked about how the border used to be when the ethnic Kachin militants sold seemingly endless quantities of jade and timber to fund their war against the Tatmadaw.

小刘又提起从前克钦武装是如何在边境上贩卖大量的玉石和木材,充作军费供给他们和政府军之间的战争。

But things have changed. Myanmar underwent a political transition in 2010 and ended a long-standing cease-fire with the Kachin. Fighting broke out as the Tatmadaw cracked down on the informal jade and timber trade. Clashes were most intense near the Chinese border and along routes into Yunnan province. As the Tatmadaw took over more and more supply routes and jade deposits from the Kachin, the military was able to restrict the flow of jade -- and inflate prices.

但是现在世道变了,缅甸政府在2010年有一次政治变动,并和克钦武装达成了长期的停火协定。政府军转而开始打击非法的玉石和红木交易,交战主要发生在中缅边境那些通向云南的道路上。随着政府军拿下了克钦州越来越多的走私路径和玉石储备,他们终于控制住了玉石资源,从此缅甸玉价格一路飞涨。

"No easy windfalls can be expected anymore," Liu said. The long-standing balance between the sides has collapsed. "It's just like the Three Kingdoms," he said, referring to the time in Chinese history when the nation was divided between three balanced kingdoms. As the Kachin Independence Army weakens, China could lose its leverage over the Tatmadaw, a development that worries Liu. He mused, "What if one of the kingdoms is out of the game?"

”现在发大财没有那么容易了。“小刘说。中缅边境长久以来形成的平衡被打破了.”这里就像三国时期,”他引用了一个历史名词。如果克钦独立军的势力被削弱了,中国就会失去在这个地区的筹码,接下来会发生什么很让他担心,于是他沉默了,”如果克钦最终被消灭了,我不知道会怎么样。“

A Tale of Two Cities

双城记

Lao Yang has two jobs. Sometimes he is a successful businessman in Ruili, the flourishing border town where I met him, just opposite the Myanmar city of Muse. Before he came to Ruili, he was a farmer in his hometown of Yingjiang, opposite Laiza -- the former headquarters of the Kachin Independence Army. Yingjiang, once as prosperous as Ruili, is now a backwater, and its border crossing is closed because of ongoing fighting between the Kachin and the Tatmadaw. Yang still goes back from time to time to tend to his fields.

老杨有两个身份,有时他是瑞丽市的一个成功商人,我在这个繁华的商埠第一次见到他时,为这里和缅甸农村鲜明的对比惊叹。在他来到瑞丽之前,还是一个老家在盈江的农民,和克钦自由军原来的大本营拉咱市很近。盈江曾经和瑞丽一样繁荣,直到克钦和缅甸政府军的战争打响,导致边境关闭。老杨倒是仍然会时常会老家看一看。

When the border closed, Yang went to Ruili in hopes of making money from the cross-border trade and investment there. He said he started out as a truck driver but did not tell me what he carried. Maybe his truck was just one of the many that crowd the border gate carrying watermelons, machinery, gravel or fuel. It is equally likely that he showed up at midnight with a bribe for the guard and carried illegal rice and jade. He did admit to selling a little jade himself sometimes -- like everyone in Ruili -- but said he was never greedy, unlike the coastal Chinese transplants who have poured millions into gambling on jade or fabricating fake stones.

边境关闭后,老杨就到了瑞丽,想在那里搞点越境贸易和投资。他说他刚到这里时干的工作是用卡车跑运输,但是他没有告诉我他运的是什么,也许和现在仍然挤在边境关卡的那些卡车一样运的是西瓜,机械,石料和燃料,并且像老杨告诉我的那样半夜通过贿赂守卫偷带进大米和玉石。他承认他自己也曾经那样做过,瑞丽的很多人都这样干——但是他说他永远不至于太过贪婪,不会像那些从沿海地区来的人那样在赌石上一掷百万或者制造假玉。

With the 2013 opening of the China-Myanmar border to tourism, Yang began to operate a two-star hotel in the city center and work as a guide, leading customers over the border. He even saves them the trouble of getting a Myanmar visa. When he took me, he led me through a bamboo forest to a remote checkpoint meant only for local use. There he bribed the Tatmadaw guard, a defector from the ethnic Shan insurgency. Such "illegal" border tourism is very popular.

2013年开放了中缅边境旅游之后,老杨在在市中心经营一家两星级酒店,同时还兼职导游,带着游客越过边境。他甚至可以帮他们省下通关的麻烦,比如他带着我穿过一片竹林到了一个偏远的检查站,那里平时只有当地人才会通过,然后他贿赂了一个掸族的政府军士兵带我越过边境,像这样的非法边境游很是流行。

Ruili is booming, but it still has not reached its potential. Both the historical Burma Road and Ledo Road once crossed the Myanmar border at Ruili. Plans to renovate and open these vital connections to India and the Myanmar coast are once again in the works, and the small border town is banking on the prosperity of an open and potentially stable border.

瑞丽正在快速发展,但是我们还没有讲到这一点的本质,那就是历史上的中缅和中印公路就曾经在瑞丽通过缅甸边境。打通这个通往缅甸和印度的交通枢纽的计划被重新提到日程上来,所以这个小城市正在因为一条更开放而且更稳定的边境而获益。

When I was there, I saw mostly rundown jade shops and nightclubs still awaiting the return of the big spenders, who, only a few years ago, thrived on unregulated drug trafficking, casinos and prostitution in the city. When night fell, the city changed dramatically. I watched as ethnic Bamar from Myanmar, Bengali and Indian vendors opened street stalls selling fake jade, cosmetics and local food. Who knows where they all lived -- people come and go easily across the porous border.

当我刚来到这里的时候,我看到的都是破旧的玉石商店和夜总会,在等着那些大客户们光临,仅仅几年之前这里还充斥着不受管制的贩毒,赌博和卖淫。夜幕降临后,城市就变了个样子,缅甸人,孟加拉人和印度人从地里钻了出来,贩卖假玉,化妆品和他们的民族食品。谁也不知道他们是怎么在这里讨生活的——这都是因为翻越边境更加容易了。

After Ruili, Yang took me 130 kilometers (80 miles) north up the newly upgraded highway to his hometown of Yingjiang to take up his other job: harvesting the peas in his fields.

从瑞丽出来,老杨带我在刚建好的高速公路上向北跑了130公里(80英里),回到了他的家乡盈江,在那里他才换了个身份:一个在地里种豆子的农民。

Greater Yingjiang county has some of the largest open plains in mountainous Yunnan province. Well-endowed with natural resources, it also shares a 200-kilometer border with Myanmar on three sides, only 100 kilometers away from Myitkyina and Bhamo, northern Myanmar's most important towns.

整个盈江地区有云南省群山中面积最大的平坦地形,并且自然条件优越,同时它也在三面被中缅边境包围,和密支那和八莫这两个缅甸最重要的城市相距只有100公里。

Yingjiang is home to ethnic minorities with ties to both sides of the border -- China's Jinghpaw and Dai are the same as Myanmar's Kachin and Shan. In ancient times, Yingjiang, like Ruili, was a key crossing point between China and the Indian subcontinent. But instead of the crowded streets and busy markets of Ruili, Yingjiang has only shuttered jade shops, cheerless hotels and lofty signs lauding Yingjiang's future upgrade from "county" to "city" status.

盈江居住着中国的少数民族景颇族和傣族,与边境对面的克钦族和掸族血缘相近。在古代的南亚次大陆上,盈江和瑞丽都是非常重要的交通枢纽。但是和瑞丽拥挤的街道,繁忙的市场不同,盈江只有少数破旧的玉石店,没有顾客的宾馆,这也是盈江是一个“县”而瑞丽是“市”的原因。

It took some time for Yingjiang to go to seed like this. Starting with the fighting between the Myanmar military and the Kachin Independence Army, the timber and jade business suffered. As the skirmishes elevated into full-fledged war, investors and tourists fled. Finally, the Myanmar military besieged Laiza, and the border was shut down, sending people like Yang to Ruili to find their way.

盈江现在落后的状况是长期形成的,由于缅甸政府军和克钦独立军之间的战争,阻断了硬木和玉石的贸易。当冲突进一步升级之后,投资和旅游的人离开了。最终政府军拿下拉咱市之后边境被关闭了,于是像老杨这样的人就涌往瑞丽寻找生计。

Letter from China: Life on the Myanmar Border, Part Two

来自中国的信:生活在中缅边境,第二部分

Editor's Note: This is the second installment of a two-part Field Note on the China-Myanmar border.

编者按:这是这篇中缅边境游记的第二部分。

"Our relatives in Myanmar are still suffering," two Chinese ethnic minority Jinghpaw girls in Yingjiang told me.

“我们在缅甸的亲戚仍然在挨饿”,两个景颇族的少女在盈江这样对我说。

Like other Jinghpaw families in Yunnan, their homes are in the isolated mountains along the border. But none of them have a desire to go back. The two of them had spent most of their lives elsewhere, in Sichuan, Guizhou and some coastal cities with sizable Jinghpaw migrant communities. One of them already bought a ticket to the Chinese city of Kashgar in southern Xinjiang, where she has secured another lucrative job.

和其他景颇人在云南的家庭一样,她们的故乡在中缅边境人迹罕至的大山中,但是她们对回到那里并没有太大兴趣。她们是在其他地方长大的,在四川,贵州有很多景颇移民形成的小聚居区。她俩其中之一刚买了一张去中国新疆南部城市喀什的火车票,在那里有一份收入更高的工作等着她。

But the Jinghpaw in China are ethnically identical to the Kachin in Myanmar, and that international divide has not been kind to their family on the other side. China has special "ethnic preference policies" that pump up the price of Jinghpaw-owned land to three times as much as rich farmland in China's agricultural center of Hubei, making it easy for them to cash out and become prosperous. Myanmar's Tatmadaw, by contrast, regularly confiscates Kachin land and attacks Kachin villages.

但是中国的景颇族人和缅甸的克钦人在血缘上是相同的,一条国境之隔的同胞命运却不相同。中国有一条特殊的民族政策,景颇人手里的土地可以在中国的种植业中心湖北省换到三倍面积同样肥沃的土地,使得景颇人可以更好地务农,改善他们的生活。相反在缅甸,政府军不断和克钦邦作战,袭击克钦人的村庄。

Image: Myanmar's Ethnic Groups

图:缅甸的少数民族区域

When recent fighting broke out between the Tatmadaw and Kachin militants, the two girls told me how their Kachin relatives were pushed into Internally Displaced Persons camps along the border, funded by local Chinese government agencies and charities. The girls brought money, food and other necessities to their family in the camps. They even campaigned, along with thousands of other Jinghpaw, for the Chinese government to join the war against the Tatmadaw. The girls also said they feared the influx of illegal migrants from Myanmar because most migrants are part of the ruling Bamar ethnicity.

两个少女告诉我,当克钦邦和缅甸政府军最新的冲突开始时,她们的克钦族亲戚进了中缅边境由中国政府和慈善机构开设的难民营,她们带着食物,钱和其它必需品去难民营里看望过他们。她们甚至和其它几千名景颇人发起过运动敦促中国政府加入对抗缅甸政府军的战争。女孩们也对开战后会涌入中缅边境的难民感到恐惧,因为那大多数会是现在在缅甸占统治地位的缅甸人。

Interestingly enough, they had never heard the name "Kachin" to describe their cousins on the other side of the border. To them, the people we call Kachin were not their ethnic compatriots but a nearby population, among which many of their literal blood relatives lived. I did not know what to make of this, except to conclude that their family ties far outweighed their ethnic consciousness and certainly transcended the artificial international border.

值得一提的是,她们压根不把那些国境对面的亲戚称作“克钦人”。对她们来说,克钦人不像我们眼里看到的那样是缅甸边陲的反抗者,而仅仅是一些住得很近,血缘相亲的人。我不知道这种状况是怎么形成的,只能说这种血缘上的联系超越了国境的分隔。

But when I asked the girls whether they were Chinese or Jinghpaw first, they said that their Chinese identity definitely came first. This was different from Myanmar, where the Kachin identify themselves primarily as Kachin and not "Myanmar." For the Chinese Jinghpaw, and many other ethnic minorities in Yunnan, the pull of the Chinese core is strong, whereas for Myanmar's minorities the pull of Myanmar's core is weak.

但是当我问她们首先把自己看成中国人还是景颇人时,她们的回答无疑是中国人。这跟缅甸的状况是不一样的,克钦人认为自己的身份首先是克钦人,而不是缅甸人。对于中国的景颇族人,和云南省的其他少数民族来说,他们和中国之间的纽带是很牢固的,与缅甸的状况截然相反。

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"李云飞阿訇:伊斯兰文明从制度上败给了西方文明" ["color"]=> string(0) "" ["url"]=> string(46) "http://www.m4.cn/opinion/2015-12/1297321.shtml" ["subtitle"]=> string(0) "" ["suburl"]=> string(0) "" ["thumb"]=> string(47) "http://upload.m4.cn/2015/1225/1451009743802.png" ["description"]=> string(192) "阿拉伯字母仍是仅次于拉丁字母的世界上使用最广泛的文字系统,伊斯兰文明也是当今人类社会唯一有可能把西方文明取而代之的世界文化体系。" ["time"]=> int(1451009766) } [6]=> array(11) { ["contentid"]=> int(1297292) ["icon"]=> string(0) "" ["iconsrc"]=> string(0) "" ["title"]=> string(81) "罗思义:中国在毛泽东治下取得了世界史上最伟大的社会成就" ["color"]=> string(0) "" ["url"]=> string(46) "http://www.m4.cn/opinion/2015-12/1297292.shtml" ["subtitle"]=> string(0) "" ["suburl"]=> string(0) "" ["thumb"]=> string(47) "http://upload.m4.cn/2015/1225/1451003936527.jpg" ["description"]=> string(210) "我们此前已经比较分析了中国1978年改革开放前后的经济增长情况。尽管如此,如果不了解1949年至1978年改革之前所取得巨大的社会成就,我们仍可能会被误导。" ["time"]=> int(1451003943) } [7]=> array(11) { ["contentid"]=> int(1297318) ["icon"]=> string(0) "" ["iconsrc"]=> string(0) "" ["title"]=> string(33) "香港特首进京也“跑部”" ["color"]=> string(0) "" ["url"]=> string(46) "http://www.m4.cn/opinion/2015-12/1297318.shtml" ["subtitle"]=> string(0) "" ["suburl"]=> string(0) "" ["thumb"]=> string(47) "http://upload.m4.cn/2015/1225/1451008702623.png" ["description"]=> string(179) "按照惯例,香港和澳门的特首每年在12月底时都会来北京向国家领导人汇报全年工作,也就是所谓的“述职”,再通俗点就是年终总结。" ["time"]=> int(1451008771) } [8]=> array(11) { ["contentid"]=> int(1297303) ["icon"]=> string(0) "" ["iconsrc"]=> string(0) "" ["title"]=> string(42) "虎牙妹:《万万没想到》有点渣" ["color"]=> string(0) "" ["url"]=> string(46) "http://www.m4.cn/opinion/2015-12/1297303.shtml" ["subtitle"]=> string(0) "" ["suburl"]=> string(0) "" ["thumb"]=> string(47) "http://upload.m4.cn/2015/1225/1451005863619.png" ["description"]=> string(228) "由于《万万》在网络剧时期累积了不小的人气,电影在点映时取得了相当大的成功,正当人们以为它能取得票房佳绩的时候,《万万》的风评却急转直下,在豆瓣上评分6.1。" ["time"]=> int(1451005740) } [9]=> array(11) { ["contentid"]=> int(1297295) ["icon"]=> string(0) "" ["iconsrc"]=> string(0) "" ["title"]=> string(72) "马平:作为前工程师,我认为深圳滑坡事故是这么回事" ["color"]=> string(0) "" ["url"]=> string(46) "http://www.m4.cn/opinion/2015-12/1297295.shtml" ["subtitle"]=> string(0) "" ["suburl"]=> string(0) "" ["thumb"]=> string(47) "http://upload.m4.cn/2015/1225/1451004166233.jpg" ["description"]=> string(183) "一般来说,规划和建设部门会分别对建设区附近的地质条件进行勘探,分析地质灾害的可能性。对于可能出现滑坡的地段,应该进行治理。" ["time"]=> int(1451004167) } [10]=> array(11) { ["contentid"]=> int(1297290) ["icon"]=> string(0) "" ["iconsrc"]=> string(0) "" ["title"]=> string(45) "寒竹:中国历史中的社会主义根基" ["color"]=> string(0) "" ["url"]=> string(46) "http://www.m4.cn/opinion/2015-12/1297290.shtml" ["subtitle"]=> string(0) "" ["suburl"]=> string(0) "" ["thumb"]=> string(47) "http://upload.m4.cn/2015/1225/1451003740374.jpg" ["description"]=> string(213) "在经济领域进一步深化市场化导向的改革,是当下中国发展的一个重要方向。市场能够最大限度地实现资源的有效配置,从而给经济发展提供强大而持续的动力。" ["time"]=> int(1451003764) } [11]=> array(11) { ["contentid"]=> int(1297248) ["icon"]=> string(0) "" ["iconsrc"]=> string(0) "" ["title"]=> string(69) "自导自演的和平演变:越南反共总理政治炒作的背后" ["color"]=> string(0) "" ["url"]=> string(46) "http://www.m4.cn/opinion/2015-12/1297248.shtml" ["subtitle"]=> string(0) "" ["suburl"]=> string(0) "" ["thumb"]=> string(47) "http://upload.m4.cn/2015/1224/1450949829631.png" ["description"]=> string(303) "越南中央级的党报党刊、军报军刊最近发表大量文章,阐述党的路线和大政方针,同时揭露、批判“国内外各种敌对势力和政治机会主义分子”在十二大前的各种破坏阴谋和伎俩,强调要防范和反对“和平演变”和“颜色革命”。" ["time"]=> int(1450949950) } [12]=> array(11) { ["contentid"]=> int(1297247) ["icon"]=> string(0) "" ["iconsrc"]=> string(0) "" ["title"]=> string(42) "津巴布韦缘何“相中”人民币?" ["color"]=> string(0) "" ["url"]=> string(46) "http://www.m4.cn/opinion/2015-12/1297247.shtml" ["subtitle"]=> string(0) "" ["suburl"]=> string(0) "" ["thumb"]=> string(47) "http://upload.m4.cn/2015/1224/1450948423306.png" ["description"]=> string(140) "中国是津巴布韦的第二大贸易合作伙伴,每年双边贸易额超过10亿元,津巴布韦对人民币的需求日趋强烈。" ["time"]=> int(1450948518) } [13]=> array(11) { ["contentid"]=> int(1297246) ["icon"]=> string(0) "" ["iconsrc"]=> string(0) "" ["title"]=> string(33) "台湾选举提前结束了吗?" ["color"]=> string(0) "" ["url"]=> string(46) "http://www.m4.cn/opinion/2015-12/1297246.shtml" ["subtitle"]=> string(0) "" ["suburl"]=> string(0) "" ["thumb"]=> string(47) "http://upload.m4.cn/2015/1224/1450946885538.jpg" ["description"]=> string(108) "本来选战就是中间选民的争夺战,这一次,国民党要找回自己的基本盘,怎么了?" ["time"]=> int(1450946760) } [14]=> array(11) { ["contentid"]=> int(1297058) ["icon"]=> string(0) "" ["iconsrc"]=> string(0) "" ["title"]=> string(90) "清华博士:台湾是“杀出来的奴才,打出来的顺民,惯出来的孽种”" ["color"]=> string(0) "" ["url"]=> string(46) "http://www.m4.cn/opinion/2015-12/1297058.shtml" ["subtitle"]=> string(0) "" ["suburl"]=> string(0) "" ["thumb"]=> string(47) "http://upload.m4.cn/2015/1223/1450833056693.png" ["description"]=> string(297) "一直以来,中国政府奉行对台让利政策,对台湾的开放程度远远超过台湾对大陆的开放程度,就已在太阳花运动中被否定的“贸服协定”为例,对大陆的要求几乎全部是高于WTO中的规定,而对台湾却几乎全部是低于WTO的规定。" ["time"]=> int(1450833467) } [15]=> array(11) { ["contentid"]=> int(1297067) ["icon"]=> string(0) "" ["iconsrc"]=> string(0) "" ["title"]=> string(60) "金庸:揭中国人不擅长打仗为何却能赢的真相" ["color"]=> string(0) "" ["url"]=> string(46) "http://www.m4.cn/opinion/2015-12/1297067.shtml" ["subtitle"]=> string(0) "" ["suburl"]=> string(0) "" ["thumb"]=> string(47) "http://upload.m4.cn/2015/1223/1450834511242.jpg" ["description"]=> string(243) "现在许多西方学者都认为,地球就这样大了,无止境地追求、扩充,是不可能的,也是不可取的。今後只能接受中国的哲学,要平衡、要和谐,民族与民族之间要相互协作,避免战争。" ["time"]=> int(1450834575) } }

朱维群:达赖与暴力恐怖主义的关系能撇清吗

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2索纳丽丨你美国人买不起电动汽车,这就是原
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6世贸组织裁决中方胜诉 澳大利亚:接受裁决
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182天7条!华春莹连发图文回击美菲操弄南海问
19突发!俄罗斯战机拦截两架美国军机
20拜登就货船撞塌大桥发声,称是“可怕事故”
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6俄自媒体揭露:全球恐怖势力竟源自单一团伙
7马斯克:美国需要一股"红色浪潮",否则就完
8深得法国精髓:民众在美高官住宅前倾倒粪便
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14大批移民冲破铁丝网 试图越过美墨边境涌入
15联合国发布!"美国跌出前20" 中国排名上升
16俄副总理:40%的油气出口使用人民币结算
17美国会议员称美国尚未向台湾交付全部已付费
18【组图】神秘的中朝边境
19俄军检查被击毁的美"艾布拉姆斯"坦克残骸
20纽约市真实生活成本曝光 半数家庭靠援助过
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3许多人曾崇拜西方价值观,但现在幻想破灭…
4胡懋仁|兰德公司的两份报告
5戴旭丨很多国人不知反毛背后的大阴谋,令人
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7美军公布:六代机最新进展……
8江平舟|莫斯科恐袭 美国事先就知情?
9占豪丨5艘航母,美国开始介入!中国发出最
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12金灿荣|大陆海警重拳反击 台湾问题快要解
13司马南|美国为什么怕中国汽车?
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15牛弹琴|这两个最新动向,让人瞠目结舌
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18统一"绊脚石"正被踢开!蔡英文最怕一幕发生
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